As island hopping is emerging as a new trend among travellers, what other place can one turn to in India if not the Andamans? Comprising over 300 islands, this archipelago boasts of pristine beaches, lush rainforests, and vibrant marine life. Having said that, decades of poaching and a rapid population increase have left the islands fragile – a reason why sustainability is a crucial aspect in tourism.
This is where Tilar Siro, a property by CGH Earth set on Havelock island, stands out. After a two-hour ferry ride from Port Blair, I checked into the property on a pleasant afternoon. Taking its eco-commitment seriously, Tilar Siro — meaning the land near the open sea, according to the Great Andamanese Tribe who named it ‘Thi-Lar-Siro’ — does not use single-use plastics, prepares food on order to avoid wastage , and ensures a significant green cover to minimise the environmental footprint on its surroundings.
Diving in the Andamans | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Anil Kumar, general manager of Tilar Siro, describes the property — which has 16 sea-facing rooms and eight garden cabins — as “functional” and “aesthetically good”. “The place is not overly luxurious. Any other resort would have made this place a bustling cash cow with one bar counter here, a snack unit over here,” he says, pointing around the grove. Amidst the bustling tourist activity that characterises Havelock, finding solace in the serenity of a sunrise or sunset can sometimes prove challenging. However, away from the throngs of tourists lies Tilar Siro’s own Vijaynagar Beach (Beach number 5), where I caught a breathtaking sunrise the next morning.
Nestled amidst lush greenery, the property is a tranquil sanctuary. After sunrise, led by Tilar Siro’s naturalist Akhil Viswanath, a few of us went birdwatching. We sighted the Andaman coucal, Asian koel, and the ever-flying plume-toed swiftlet. Among the foliage, we also saw collared kingfisher and the chestnut-headed bee-eater, red-breasted parakeet, Asian glossy starling, and a black-naped oriole, flitting about gracefully.
Tilar Siro | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
On the second afternoon at Tilar Siro, we were taken on a short trek through the jungle from Kalpatharu village to a “secret beach” for a picnic and a swim. To be in a secluded beach, away from the clamour of tourists wanting to shoot the perfect ‘reel’, is surely a luxury.
At Havelock, the intertidal walk is unmissable. Timed meticulously to coincide with low tide hours, we waded through cool waters as the sandy shores teemed with life. From the elusive hermit crabs scuttling across the sand to the quick pallid ghost crab, the walk is a wondrous activity for children and adults alike.
Beneath the surface, a colourful array of marine life greeted us — gobies darting between crevices and needlefish shimmering in the sunlight. Parrotfish near the reefs added a pop of colour to the aquatic landscape; the occasional glimpse of a mantis shrimp or the flutter of a butterflyfish piqued our excitement.
Once underwater, under the guidance of certified instructors, you can navigate through vibrant coral gardens, and swim alongside schools of colourful fish | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
One of the island’s standout features is, of course, diving and the abundance of diving centres. Lacadives, Tilar Siro’s diving partner, offers PADI-certified courses to suit all skill levels and comprehensive training and guidance to ensure a safe experience.
Beginners are first given confined training, followed by open water training. “We teach them three to four skills to make sure they understand how the equipment works, or how to solve a problem underwater. We also teach them communication,” says Kirti Shanbhag, divemaster at Lacadives. To avoid beginners diving in choppy waters, the diving site is decided based on the wind condition.
Tilar Siro | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Once underwater, under the guidance of certified instructors, you can navigate through vibrant coral gardens, and swim alongside schools of colourful fish. Divers are greeted by a kaleidoscope of coral formations, including the intricate pore corals, honeycomb corals, and brain corals. Sponges of various colours and sizes adorn the reef, adding to the magic. Whether diving without prior training or exploring advanced dive sites, Havelock offers an unparalleled diving experience in the crystal-clear Andaman sea.
The writer was in Havelock on the invitation of CGH Earth Experience Hotels